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 Poland 2002 - LublinLublin is a relatively sizeable city in the southeastern part of Poland. We got there by taking the train from Krakow to Warsaw, then catching a connection. If you look on a map, you'll see that a direct route would have been far more efficient, but the only direct train left at an ungodly hour in the morning. As we rolled into Lublin, we saw ugly, communist-era-style apartments reaching into the sky. Devoted Kieslowski fans might recall the Warsaw apartment complex in the Dekalog. These were like those, only taller, and with rust-red paint applied to some sections. Spoiled by the beauty of Krakow, I thought, "Please don't let this be Lublin." But it was. What had we gotten ourselves into? My friend Paula and her pal Aggie met us at the station. They explained that we were in a dodgy part of town, and that where we were headed was much more picturesque. Good, I thought. We took a cab to Old Town and were deposited at our residence: a convent that doubled as a hostel. Not having had a Catholic upbringing, I had never really interacted with nuns before. I felt a bit, well, sinful lodging at such a holy place. However, the mother superior (I'm calling her that because she basically acted like the head nun, but my nun terms may not be accurately employed) was super friendly and accommodating, and she immediately put me at ease. The rooms were extraordinarily cheap, allowing us to recover from the hotel prices we paid in Krakow (from then on we went with hostels all the way). 
The nuns at the convent didn't speak English, so Paula had to translate for us. Todd and I were thrilled to receive an invitation to have breakfast with the nuns the following morning. We happily visualized ourselves sitting at the end of a long table surrounded by nuns, and so quickly agreed to be there at 8 AM.
But when we arrived that morning the nuns didn't want to eat with us at all! They sat in the kitchen at their own table! Hostel guests sat in a separate dining room. We were crushed! As we munched on bread, cheese, and fruit, a middle-aged woman, seated amongst her friends, said something to us in Polish. I replied, in Polish, that I did not understand—I was American. So she then said, "Sprechen sie Deutsch?" To which I replied, "Nein, ich spreche keine Deutsch." Which was, obviously, not entirely true. I could have reminded her again that I was American—not German—but I didn't know how to say that. Then she said, "Oh! Parlez-vous francaise?" Feeling terribly dumb, I stared down at my plate and said, mournfully, "Non." Breakfast was a very quiet affair.  One of the nuns didn't seem to like us, although we didn't do anything deliberately to offend her. She was mopping the floor one day, and we walked through to reach our rooms, which pissed her off (she expressed her discontent to Paula). But a particularly attractive nun smiled every time she walked by, and that always made us happy. Some nuns are really mean, but some are so cute! I want one!
The rooms were comfortable; we could see Lublin Castle from them. Warning to travelers: it is somewhat difficult to masturbate in a room with a crucifix hanging on a wall. But not impossible. If you're in Lublin, the castle is a fabulous place to visit. It contains a big art gallery and an impressive collection of weapons. The Chapel of the Holy Trinity is a gaudy and beautiful spectacle—much fun for anyone interested in Christian iconography. Todd enjoyed identifying the types of angels portrayed on the ceiling. Some angels were bad-asses, dude. Old town and new are separated by the Krakow Gate, a rather handsome clock tower. Soviet paintings from the 1950s adorn many buildings in Old Town. Old Town's architecture is old, whereas New Town's architecture is more modern, i.e. "new." That's the main difference. Which you could have figured out for yourselves.  There is an excellent museum of rural life in Lublin. Polish houses from the ages have been restored here. You are allowed to walk right through them. They are furnished and decorated as they would have been around the time of their construction. One experiences a voyeuristic thrill wandering through these places. We enjoyed beer and traditional Polish food at a little bar in the middle of the museum grounds, then hitched a ride back to the entrance in a horse-drawn carriage.
Lublin was holding local elections at the time, so campaign posters were everywhere. Impromptu outdoor movie theaters showed films touting the strengths of certain candidates. The triumphant orchestral music playing in the backgrounds of some of these films coupled with Polish language exaltations gave one the curious sense of being back in communist times. Listen to a Lublin bell ringer campaign for his candidate. Introduction to our Poland trip Krakow (1) Kryjowka, Krakow Auschwitz Lublin (1) Lublin (2) Warsaw The Park, Warsaw Some interesting information Some useful information
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